![]() When I lived in Houston, I could buy B100 commercially. I homebrew it myself, and have passed ASTM testing for commercial fuel specs. I work with soy and canola oil about 90% of the time, in WVO form - I pick it up as waste oil from restaurant fryers. That's exactly why I chose the earlier car to purchase: fuel-and-go. Those of use with pre-emissions-nightmare cars have it easy. ![]() Also, depending on your year and model, you should watch your crankcase oil levels and make sure you don't foul that. The only known event on emissions is that your DPF may purge more frequently, depending on conditions. If you have a lot of miles on diesel, carry a spare fuel filter and a wrench or two - biodiesel is a great solvent, and on first use has a tendency to wash up all the old sludge in your fuel tank and clog your filter. If you aren't familiar with the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act, let me summarize it for you: the stuff about voiding your warranty is about 98% nonsense. (That's as cold as it has gotten here this year, and that's pretty unusual! I keep a jug outdoors just for cold-weather observation purposes.) I homebrew my own biodiesel, and with my feedstock oils, it remains liquid as low as 18F. ![]() It's very cold (even in Texas) right now, so my blend is lower than usual, but I've been known to cruise on B100 in the summer. I've burned very high biodiesel blends in my V10TDI. ![]()
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